Saturday, April 30, 2011

Notes From Leogane No. 7: Death in a hallway, funerals and mass graves



Dear Family and Friends:

Of death, William Shakespeare penned several poems; one is:

Come away, come away, death,
    And in sad cypress let me be laid.
Fly away, fly away, breath;
    I am slain by a fair cruel maid.
My shroud of white, stuck all with yew,
    O, prepare it!
My part of death, no one so true
    Did share it.

Not a flower, not a flower sweet,
    On my black coffin let there be strown.
Not a friend, not a friend greet
    My poor corpse, where my bones shall be thrown.
A thousand thousand sighs to save,
    Lay me, O, where
Sad true lover never find my grave,
    To weep there!

("Come Away, Come Away, Death")


This past Thursday, I stood along a wall as a shroud passed.

I had been a bit self-absorbed the last three hours that day, as the construction company plumber was going back and forth between the Guesthouse and outside.  I was praying that the four of us who live on the second floor would have some respite from a week of bucket baths.

It matters not here whether we had showers from a nozzle that night. What matters to me now is the recognition that at times I have lost my bearings when navigating between trivial things and matters of importance to us and our loved ones.  On Thursday, all of my senses were jolted by death in that hallway.

As I walked from the second floor into the main entrance to the hospital, I heard a woman speaking very quickly to those with her, with a few moans injected into the conversation. They were at the initial hospital entrance at the street, not near the hospital lobby entrance.  In just the few seconds it took me to cross the lobby and go out back, I glanced their way and just assumed here was just another relative waiting for news from the Emergency Room physician or a nurse about the treatment needed for some injury.  I had not noticed the large black vehicle with "Paradis" on the driver's side panel.

I was really peeved when I couldn't find the plumber out back near the main pipelines that serve water to the hospital and the Guesthouse. I thought," I bet he left for day without getting us water.  Give me a break please."

I was looking down and not really paying any attention to those nearby as I started back across the lobby to the Guesthouse stairway.  The woman's excited conversation had dramatically changed to a wail.  Even then I didn't recognize the reason, not until a few seconds later when
a nurse held her hand out signaling me to stand along the hallway.

Two attendants were carrying a bright white shroud.  It was wrapped so tight that I could see a general outline of a face and the length and size of the deceased.  As the stretcher came out into daylight, and could be seen directly by the woman, she collapsed on the ground. I think she was in her mid to late twenties.  I will not soon forget the oscillating screams and cries, as her friends tried to bring her to her feet.  It was as if her legs had turned to jelly.  The widow or sister or close friend of the person being placed into the hearse remained on the ground for what seemed an eternity.

The deaths of my beloved parents and my dear brother were expected. They all died in hospice care.

I have never before faced death and its devastating aftermath in such an immediate and jolting fashion.  While we of course see its outward signs, the intangible essence of pure raw grief is not visible; but it is palpable.  It crawled into the hospital last Thursday afternoon, and judging by their reactions it hit certain people very hard.

I would expect that all hospital staff, out of necessity, would have grown an extra thick layer of "emotional skin," as protection of sorts from just such events.  Not so to my observation.  I do not know whether January 12, 2010 and its aftermath have changed the way many in Leogane react to death in their midst.  I would not be surprised to have someone tell me that the memory of 20,000 people lost to the Quake in Leogane has forever dulled their senses.  But I also expect that others have a chronic low level infection of grief that spikes at the sight of a funeral procession.

If you work or live in the vicinity of l'hopital Sainte Croix, you will hear and see many of the funeral processions going toward the Leogane Cemetery.  The street on the northern edge of the hospital is the principal passageway for those who have left this life.  Sometimes it seems that death comes in bunches in Leogane.  Two weeks ago, three funeral processions approached the intersection on the northwest corner of the hospital; two coming from the west and one from the north.  It was so crowded that the second and third processions came to a halt to allow the first procession, and its funeral music, to fade as it moved closer to the cemetery.  In turn, the third procession had to wait again as the second procession moved once again toward the east.

I must remember, however, that funerals will pass by here often, because this is the main street to the cemetery, and Leogane the city had a population of 100,000 before 5% of its citizens died in the earthquake.

As I write this Note, I have watched from the roof of the hospital eight or nine funerals process toward the cemetery.  Each of these funerals has been led by a band.  While most play music that would be called somber, some have mixed in more upbeat "New Orleans-style" funeral procession melodies.  During most of the funerals I have observed, what I have assumed was the widow or mother was walking directly behind the hearse, being supported on both sides by family or friends. This person did not walk quietly.  Other times, someone who I surmised was a sister or aunt was following a little farther back, and also being supported by others as she was sobbing loudly enough for me to hear.

A week ago yesterday, I was visiting with Peterson, who dropped by to chat.  (I think I already have mentioned that Peterson is one of the translators who go into the field with the mobile clinics.)  He was carrying a newly pressed suit.  When I asked him was he on the way to a wedding, he said he was attending a funeral the next day.  The next morning, Samdi, I heard music and went up to the roof to see if it was a rara band.  It was a funeral.  As the procession passed by, toward the back Peterson looked up and we nodded to each other.  The day before, I learned that his friend has died the way so many young people die in the United States - a traffic accident.

I had brought my camera to the roof just in case the music was from a rara band.  Until last Saturday, I had not felt comfortable photographing a funeral procession, even from the roof.  But when I saw a woman, who clearing was part of the funeral group, standing in the middle of the intersection off the northwest corner of the hospital taking several pictures, I used my camera.  I will be sending you some of the photographs.  The large contingent of girls toward the front, in light brown outfits, are Girl Scouts.  As I mentioned before, at the Episcopal church next door, Girl Scouts in uniform sometime serve as ushers during communion and have other duties during the service.  There also were Girl Scouts trying to hold back motos during the Catholic Stations of the Cross procession on Good Friday.

As I'm typing this note, I’m wondering whether a funeral procession will pass by in the next few days, with the woman I saw last Thursday walking behind a hearse.  Perhaps not, because it is obvious to me, after walking around Leogane off and on for a month, that these processions cannot be afforded by all in Leogane.  I would expect that most, if not all, of the people I saw at the tent city last Saturday could not afford this type of send off.

When I was watching the rara events of last Sunday, I did not expect to see many people from the tent city. After seven or eight o'clock that night, I think some were worried more about finding food for themselves and their children for the next day.  Rather than dancing and singing along with a rara band down below my window, I imagine some were quietly talking or singing to their children, and praying that sleep would bring a few hours respite from hunger.

Tomorrow, I'm going to walk down to the site of the Leogane mass graves.  All I have to do is follow the pathway of the funeral processions I have been watching.  I will be sending you a photograph taken a little more than a month after the earthquake.  The article accompanying this photograph includes this:

"Unlike the capital, Leogane's mass graves are in the town itself, alongside a main road and just in front of the cemetery.  Piles of dirt and concrete sit above them, old clothes, underwear and shoes
mixed in." (M. J. Smith AFP, Life goes on at Haiti's quake epicenter (24 Feb. 10). The caption under the photograph states in part: "Rubble covers a mass grave on the side of a road just outside a cemetery in the coastal city of Leogane in February 23, 2010."

A memorial to all those in the mass grave now is on the surface, above the rubble now serving as grave cover.

I cannot think about last Thursday, the funeral processions, and the mass grave not far from here, without also remembering that there are so many that could not have a final visit with a loved one.  In many instances, surviving families lost more one person without having the closure that comes from honoring the dead, and remembering a life lived, at a mortuary, church or cemetery.  There must be thousands upon thousands in the mass grave down the street who never were seen by a husband, wife, daughter, son or parent, for the last goodbye. Rotting corpses needed to be covered in quick fashion.

Many years ago, Jeanne and I were stopped in traffic for a funeral when she told me that while growing up, when she and her siblings were with a parent, they would say the rosary as a funeral procession passed their car or where they were walking.  Knowing Jeanne and some of her siblings, I bet a few of them did the same when neither of their parents were with them.

I'm going to modify that tradition some. I have promised myself that when a funeral procession passes by me here, and also when I'm back in the States, I will pause to think of the people in mass graves everywhere; to remember all of the families who did not have the chance for a personal, in person last goodbye of honor. It will not only think of Leogane and other mass graves in Haiti, but those in Indonesia from the tsunami there, the earthquake and tsunami in Japan, the Jewish Holocaust of World War II, the Cambodia Holocaust, Serbia and Bosnia, and all other such mass burial places on this earth.

I hope that these pauses will jolt me, when needed, to remember always to cherish those who are so important to me and who have meant so much to my becoming who I am.  And to let them know that often.

I have more to share with you about various things going on in Leogane and elsewhere in Haiti.  Out of respect for the dead, that can wait for another day.

I hope this Note finds you and your loved ones in good health and spirits.

David
April 30, 2011

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